If you’re someone who loves the many forms of nature and enjoys being amazed and awed by its beauty, then Shey Phoksundo Lake should definitely be on your bucket list. Located in the Dolpa district of Karnali Province in Nepal, this lake is one of nature’s most fascinating wonders. It’s truly a once-in-a-lifetime destination for every nature lover.
Shey Phoksundo is an oligotrophic lake situated at an altitude of around 3,800 meters. What makes it especially unique is that it’s one of the largest lakes in Nepal, with water so clear and transparent that it resembles glass. Due to its high altitude and minimal human interference, the lake feels like a living witness to the early history of Earth.
The lake is also the origin point of the Bheri River, a tributary of the Ghaghara River (known as Karnali in Nepal). It’s not only known for its cool, crystal-clear water but also for being oligotrophic—meaning it has extremely low nutrient content, making it almost devoid of aquatic life, including microorganisms. Surrounded by towering Himalayan peaks, this glacier-fed lake is pristine and untouched.
The lake freezes over in winter, so the best time to visit is between April and October. The deep blue color of the lake—enhanced by clear skies and sunlight—looks like a reflection of the open sky itself. This captivating sight mesmerizes every traveler.
If you’re a true nature enthusiast, love exploring, connecting with people, understanding new cultures and cuisines, and gaining unique experiences, this journey to Shey Phoksundo could be one of the most unforgettable adventures of your life.
In this detailed guide, I’ve shared how to reach Phoksundo Lake, what documents are needed, the estimated budget, travel routes, maps, and other helpful tips. When I visited, I couldn’t find any clear information—not even on Google Maps.
So, I wrote this article especially in Hindi, keeping Indian travelers in mind, so that if you wish to travel from India to Phoksundo Lake, you don’t face the difficulties I did.
Best Time to Visit Shey Phoksundo Lake
The ideal time to visit Phoksundo Lake is from mid-April to June and from August to October. To get there, you’ll first need to reach Dunai, Dolpa, which is the starting point of your trek to the lake.
There are three main ways to reach Dunai:
1. By Flight
If you prefer flying, you can book a flight from Nepalgunj or Kathmandu to Dolpa Airport (Jufal). For bookings, check Plan Nepal Travels & Tours Pvt. Ltd.‘s website.
To reach Nepalgunj from India, head to the Rupaidiha border in Bahraich district of Uttar Pradesh, which is around 180 km from Lucknow. After crossing the border, you can take a taxi and reach Nepalgunj Airport in about 30 minutes.
2. By Bus
First, cross the Rupaidiha border and reach Nepalgunj. From there, you can catch a local bus or shared jeep to Dunai, Dolpa.
The distance is approx. 390 km, and the journey takes 15 to 16 hours. If weather conditions are bad or there’s a landslide, the journey can stretch to 20–22 hours.
Bus fare from Nepalgunj to Dunai is around NPR 4,000.
3. By Private Vehicle
You can also travel in your own car or bike, but you’ll still need to reach Rupaidiha border first. After crossing into Nepal, you must obtain a vehicle permit.
To do this, you’ll need to show your vehicle’s Registration Certificate (RC) and inform them how many days you plan to stay in Nepal.
IMPORTANT:
Any Indian-registered vehicle staying more than a day in Nepal must have a permit. You can get this from the local Bhansar (Customs) office at the border. The permit is valid for a maximum of 30 days.
- Car Permit Fee: NPR 1,500 per day (only use a 4×4 car, smaller cars are not suitable for current road conditions as of 2024)
- Bike Permit Fee: NPR 200 per day
Note: It’s advisable to take a 10-day permit for Shey Phoksundo. You must exit Nepal before your permit expires. Don’t take this lightly—local police regularly check documents at checkpoints.
Checklist for Bike Riders (Assuming You’re Traveling by Bike)
Here’s what you’ll need for a smooth journey:
- Indian ID proof (Aadhaar, Passport, or any valid ID)
- Bike Documents: RC & Driver’s License
- Basic Bike Servicing & Tool Kit
- Tubeless tires recommended
- Full fuel tank before entering Nepal
- Buy a Nepal SIM card (Though most hotels/shops offer Wi-Fi)
- Power bank & torch (Weather and electricity are unpredictable)
- Trekking shoes & raincoat
- Minimal luggage—one backpack only
- At least NPR 27,000 (~INR 17,000) for travel from Nepalgunj to Phoksundo and back
- Medicines (Headache, fever, fatigue), energy bars, glucose, water bottle
Currency Note: Exchange Indian rupees to Nepali rupees as soon as you cross the border—you’ll need it throughout the journey. Most local shops, hotels, and banks offer exchange services.
Would you like me to proceed with Part 3, covering the 9-day itinerary breakdown from Rupaidiha to Shey Phoksundo Lake and back?
📍 Day 1: Rupaidiha Border to Rukum West
Start from the Rupaidiha border and travel through Nepalgunj → Kohalpur → Babai → Chhinchu → Botechaur → Sallibazar → Jajarkot (Khalanga) to reach Rukum West – Radi Bazaar, the district headquarters. Find a hotel here and stay overnight.
📍 Day 2: Rukum to Dunai
The road from Radi onwards is rough and time-consuming. In fact, the route isn’t clearly marked even on Google Maps. Cross a suspension bridge from Radi and follow the Thulobheri River trail via Tallobagar Bazaar → Tribeni → Khadang → Tripurakot → Suligad, and finally Dunai.
Check into a hotel in Dunai and rest well, because your trek begins tomorrow from Suligad, which is just 10 minutes away from Dunai.
📍 Day 3: Suligad to Rechi Trek
Start early around 6–7 AM from Suligad. This is a Nepali Army checkpoint and base, so if you’re riding a bike, you can park it there safely for 4–5 days.
Walk for 20 minutes to reach the Phoksundo Trek Entry Point, where you need to buy a Shey Phoksundo National Park Entry Ticket:
- NPR 1,500 for Indian/SAARC citizens
- NPR 3,000 for foreign citizens
- NPR 100 for Nepali citizens
After getting your ticket, the trek begins.
- 🛑 First Stop (after 2 hours): Kagni – a tiny village with rest stops and small eateries.
Locals often refer to this place as Sunita Hotel, a well-known pit stop. - 🛑 Second Stop (after 1 hour): Sangta Hotel – another small rest point.
After this, the landscape dramatically changes—dense pine forests begin, and it gets colder. - 🛑 Third Stop (after 2 more hours): Chepka (Chhepka) – if you begin trekking at 8 AM and keep walking steadily, you’ll reach Chepka by 2 PM.
💡 Note:
Many blogs recommend staying overnight in Chepka for two key reasons:
- You’ve already covered 40% of the trek.
- The next stop, Rechi, is 4 hours away and there are no food or rest options in between.
Also, post 2 PM, trekking further could mean walking in dark, dense forests without signboards or directions.
📌 My Suggestion:
If you’re physically capable, don’t stop in Chepka. Continue to Rechi for the night halt. You’ll find rooms for around NPR 1,000 per night.
📍 Day 4: Rechi to Ringmo (Phoksundo Lake)
After breakfast at Rechi, leave by 8 AM. You’ll reach:
- 🛑 Saijol (after 2 hours): Home to Tapriza Secondary School and two famous guesthouses – Trekker’s Inn and Jharna Hotel.
From Saijol, it takes 3.5 hours to reach Ringmo village. The climb gets steeper, and you’ll be walking along narrow rocky mountain trails.
Along the way, you’ll find 2–3 stunning view points, the most breathtaking being the Phoksundo Waterfall (also called Jharna). From there, it’s a 30-minute walk on a flat trail to Ringmo.
- Reach Ringmo by around 2 PM.
- Get a room for NPR 800–1,000.
- Lunch costs around NPR 400–450 per plate.
Take a short walk—within 10 minutes, you’ll be standing in front of the blue Phoksundo Lake, where the cold breeze and glowing water will melt your fatigue away.
Relax by the lakeside and rest for the big day ahead.
📍 Day 5: Phoksundo Lake Trek and Viewpoints
Spend the day exploring the lake’s edges via narrow trekking paths. You’ll get two unforgettable viewpoints where you can see the entire lake in one glance.
📸 The bluer the lake looks, the clearer the sky and brighter the sun.
📍 Day 6: Ringmo to Chepka (Return Trek)
Start trekking back from Phoksundo Lake at 7–8 AM. Most of the return path is downhill, so you’ll walk faster.
Reach Chepka by 4 PM and spend the night.
💡 Pro Tip: If you feel strong enough, walk past Chepka to Sangta or Kagni and spend the night there.
📍 Day 7: Chepka to Suligad → Dunai
Trek back to Suligad. This leg takes around 5–6 hours since it’s more level but slightly longer.
From Suligad, it’s just a 10-minute walk to Dunai.
Stay overnight in Dunai and rest well for the next day’s ride.
📍 Day 8: Dunai to Chhinchu (Return Ride)
While most of the return route is downhill, the road between Dunai and Jajarkot remains rough and time-consuming.
By evening, you’ll reach Chhinchu. Stay here for the night.
📍 Day 9: Chhinchu to Rupaidiha Border
Start early and ride via Nepalgunj to reach Rupaidiha Border—a distance of around 80 km.
If you leave at 8 AM, you can reach the border by 10 AM.
Estimated Budget for the Shey Phoksundo Lake Trip from India
If this is your first trip to Nepal, keep in mind that the cost of living is higher than in India. Just because the Nepali rupee is weaker than the Indian rupee, doesn’t mean the trip will be cheap.
So, it’s important to exchange Indian rupees into Nepali rupees as soon as you cross the border. You can easily exchange currency at local shops, hotels, or banks.
In Nepal, food, breakfast, fuel, and vehicle repairs are more expensive than in India. Here are a few money-saving tips:
- Bring some dry snacks, biscuits, and energy bars from India.
- Get your vehicle thoroughly serviced before the trip.
- Fill your fuel tank before entering Nepal.
As you move closer to Shey Phoksundo, fuel costs increase. In remote areas, petrol can cost NPR 190–210 per liter, and is often sold at local shops instead of petrol stations.
Sample Budget for a 9-Day Trip (1 person, on a bike)
| Expense | Approx. Cost (in NPR) |
| Bike Permit (200 x 9 days) | 1,800 |
| Accommodation (1,000 x 9 nights) | 9,000 (shared = 4,500) |
| Food (1,000/day x 9 days) | 9,000 |
| Fuel (22 litres x NPR 190) | 4,180 (round-trip from Rupaidiha to Dunai) |
| Miscellaneous & Buffer | 3,000 |
| Total Estimated Cost | ~NPR 27,000 (~INR 17,000) |
Important Tips & Local Insights
- In Nepal, Saturday is a weekly holiday, and Sunday is a working day. Don’t go to banks for currency exchange on Saturdays.
- Most road signs and milestones in Nepal are written in Devanagari script, including distance numbers—so it helps to recognize numbers in that script.
- Nepal uses the Bikram Sambat (BS) calendar, which is 57 years ahead of the Gregorian calendar. For example, the year 2025 AD is 2082 BS. So, don’t be confused when you see dates on hotel bills or permits.
- Speed Limit Caution: Even if there are no visible speed limit signs, the traffic police may monitor and fine you. Keep your speed under 60 km/h.
- Always carry your Bhansar permit, driving license, and bike papers. You’ll encounter multiple police and army checkpoints where your documents will be checked and recorded.
Summary
If you’re well-prepared and follow the route and tips above, this trip to Shey Phoksundo Lake can be one of the most enriching travel experiences of your life. You’ll witness untouched natural beauty, engage with unique cultures, and challenge yourself both physically and mentally.
If you have any more questions or need help planning your trip—feel free to drop a comment or message. Thanks for reading—and happy journey!
